A Marataba Walking Trail into Bushman's Gorge

As you enter the gorge there are several shallow caves, where you can see the remnants of thousands of years of human habitation. From the San Rock Art paintings that date back to the Late Stone age, to Iron Age tools used by the Bantu-speaking tribes that sought refuge in the gorge - you literally travel through time as you discover the different artifacts that have been collected and stored in this cave. 

The entrance to Bushman’s Gorge is thick and lined with Sandpaper Raisin trees, lots of spiky Sicklebush and ‘Blackjack’ (otherwise known as Southern Coned Marigold). Exploring during this time of year means that you walk very close to the rocky mountainside in order to avoid the thick vegetation. After several hundred meters of “bundu bashing”, the path opens to expose the natural water features, stunning rock pools, and impressive omnipresent walls of the gorge.

Wildlife in the gorge is abundant. The resident nesting black storks (a good bird to tick off your bird list) are present throughout the year. The gorge is also home to the elusive mountain wagtail, as well as hundreds of rock martins. Dragonflies, damselflies and other beautiful insects glide over the rockpools, sometimes hovering for a quick drink. Waterbuck, klipspringers, hippos and buffalos are some of the common residents in this area.

Stöhm and I set out with some of our guests from Marataba Mountain Lodge early one morning to walk through Bushman’s Gorge. Around this time of year, the vegetation slowly starts to die, meaning that the gorge is far safer to enter and exit than in the summer months. As we made our way, we spoke about the animals we could potentially see. Stöhm mentioned that buffalos frequently travel into the gorge in the evenings. They do so to seek refuge from predators while they sleep, and to be in an area where there are abundant food and water resources.

As we got off the vehicle and made our way towards the entrance of the gorge on foot, we found some buffalo tracks and dung. This section entailed careful stepping over various rocks in order to pass the large rockpool below. From previous experiences at this rockpool, we have realized that the safest thing to do is to stop completely and listen out for the cracking of branches or splashing in the water. We have had sightings of hippos, buffalos and elephants in this rockpool before, and so we stopped and listened. Stöhm noticed some ripples on the water below. Ripples could mean something small (such as a water monitor) dropping into the water, but could also mean that there was something bigger below. We were about to continue when suddenly we noticed some buffalo “dagga boys” feeding below us. We watched as they moved off into the thicket away from us. After a few minutes we continued, making sure to go around the rockpool rather than following our usual route in case there were any other buffalos expecting us!

About two hours into our trail, we stopped for a bit of breakfast at another rock pool. One of our guests decided to challenge Stöhm to a walk through the freezing cold water. Two of us decided to take on the role of spectators and filming crew, which we thought would be the less wet and cold option! Once the men were out of the water (their pants soaked from their swim, might I add), we all sat in the sunlight taking in the rays. We laughed, ate our sandwiches and reflected on the beauty around us.

Just before exiting the rock pool, we made our way towards the cultural site that the gorge is so famously named after. It is quite remarkable that we stood in the exact place of our ancestors, so many years ago. Quietly reflective and absolutely content, we walked back in the direction of the safari vehicle to begin our drive back to the lodge.

Bushman’s Gorge is a ‘must-do’ in my opinion. There is a feeling of simplicity and stillness in the gorge that is difficult to put into words. One of my trails guide mentors once told me that walking a trail is much like life itself. My takeout on these words of wisdom is that there may be more challenging short stretches en route, but the destination is always worth the journey.

Written by Robyn Quenet-Meintjes